![]() Do I need to use any fiberglass mesh to put over the lathe or can I just start with the plaster. I know I need to provide some backing material either metal or wooden lath but I'm not sure what else is needed. From what I've read so far, plaster of Paris hardens too fast, making it difficult to work with so I'm leaning towards DAP® Plaster Wall Patch (Dry Mix). The wall is currently plaster and lath and I'm trying to get a handle on the best way to repair the damage after the plaster and lath are removed. It does not store any personal data.I am having some plumbing repaired in my 1913 house that will result in a large access hole (2' x 16") on the first floor. The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". ![]() The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. Plastering Hair, Fibres, Hessian & Mesh.If shrinkage cracks appear, lightly spray the plaster with water and trowel or sponge them out. Apply Heritage Lime Plaster in two passes totalling 3 mm for the top coat skim.Float with a wooden float followed by a devil float to provide a light key for the final lime skim. Next, apply a 8-10 mm float coat of Unhaired Lime Mortar to straighten the surface as required.If you can make an indentation with your thumb it is not ready. A lime mortar or plaster is green hard when it can only just be scratched. Lightly scratch this coat with a lath or scratch comb and leave to dry and cure until green hard. Do not over trowel this coat as too much plaster may be lost through the lath. Apply scratch coat of Haired Lime Mortar through the lath (15 mm for material consumption), leaving around 1/3″ (8 mm) on the surface. ![]() There must never be any moisture on the surface of the lath. PreparationĬontrol the suction from dry timber lath by lightly spraying with water 30 minutes before the first coat. Soak new lath before fixing to ensure that they tighten when they dry. This will avoid introducing a weak stress line in the finished lath and plaster. ![]() It is important you stagger the lath on installation so that the ends of the laths are not all in a straight line. Regency Lime Plaster 2 kg per m² (optional ultra-fine top coat) (Mike Wye supplies both sawn and riven laths. Many of these developments were out of keeping with the properties for which they were specified but also introduced their own problems due to their relative lack of breathability (in the case of cement). Lime plasters stick less easily to EML and there was also a move towards using harder cement-based plasters and gypsum. Space gaps between lath by approximately ¼” (use a lath on its edge to set the spacing).ĭuring the 20th century, expanded metal lath (EML) began to supersede timber lath in new work and often in renovation work as well, being cheaper and quicker to fix. Sawn laths are generally a little narrower at around an inch (25 mm). This is much more uniform in nature and has a smoother surface giving less key to the mortar – hence the key formed by the plaster squeezed between the lath is of even greater importance. Backing coats of lime plaster should contain animal hair to help the plaster keys stay in place whilst curing occurs.īy the end of the 19th century, sawn lath produced by machinery was also much in evidence. Laths vary between 1¼” to 1½” (31 – 37 mm) in width and are around ¼” thick.įorming the keys is achieved by squeezing the lime plaster between the lath when trowelling. They are generally irregular in shape, width and thickness with a coarse surface that provides extra key. These are laths that have been split along the grain of the wood by hand. Lath and plaster work traditionally used riven oak or riven chestnut lath.
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